After being on Vancouver Island four months I managed to get the whole family down to a climbing area called the Dark Side on Nanaimo river. The walk in to the dark side is not long you start above the goerge and traverse along the top for a while then the path takes you down between some cracks and suddenly you are walking in a crack between two rock faces, they start pretty small and as you make your way down the faces on either side get bigger.
We wen
t down to an area where we climbed the sausage factory, this is a 5.8. It comprises of chimney between a spire and a wall even my son got to give it a try and do some real chimney style climbing. Then I went on to get get on a route on the right called Nose Boogie its a mixed route trad and bolts, on the middle of the pitch the route negotiates a thin crack using trad gear, a real nice route but the route I was stocked I did was aother mixed route Naked in the Dark 5.11a also mixed and about 14m. you start on small edges and pockets to reach some sloping ledges pulling up using small footholds you gain an un dercling and and move into a groove and then do a mind testing right exit after placing a number 7 nut or you can put in a cam. Swing out right on some sloping edge crack to reach the anchors. After not having climbed some time I was impressed with the lead. When I came down some other climbers told me they had seen many people take a whipper from the last section sending them plumiting back down to almost the start of the route.
t down to an area where we climbed the sausage factory, this is a 5.8. It comprises of chimney between a spire and a wall even my son got to give it a try and do some real chimney style climbing. Then I went on to get get on a route on the right called Nose Boogie its a mixed route trad and bolts, on the middle of the pitch the route negotiates a thin crack using trad gear, a real nice route but the route I was stocked I did was aother mixed route Naked in the Dark 5.11a also mixed and about 14m. you start on small edges and pockets to reach some sloping ledges pulling up using small footholds you gain an un dercling and and move into a groove and then do a mind testing right exit after placing a number 7 nut or you can put in a cam. Swing out right on some sloping edge crack to reach the anchors. After not having climbed some time I was impressed with the lead. When I came down some other climbers told me they had seen many people take a whipper from the last section sending them plumiting back down to almost the start of the route.After the climbing in the shade and the temperatures being around 28' we decided to swim in the river on the way out.
Looks cool, the next best thing to MTBing :-)
ReplyDeleteWhat an Awesome back garden!
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